Erik Monasterio and “Monasterio’s” C.V.
Dr. M. Erik Monasterio,
MB ChB, FRANZCP,
Senior Clinical Lecturer,
Consultant Forensic Psychiatrist,
Mountaineering and Alpine climbing since 1988. Climbed extensively in the Bolivian, Peruvian and Ecuadorean Andes as well as New Zealand, Australia, the Himalaya, Alaska and Europe. Work as a mountain and jungle guide in Bolivia, specializing in the organization of climbing and trekking expeditions to remote regions of that country, with an emphasis on climbs in high altitude environments and successfully guiding ascents to some of the highest peaks of the Andes (e.g. Illimani, 6480m, Ancohuma, 6460m, Illampu, 6380m, Huayna Potojsi, 6088m.). Summitted more than ten mountains over 6000m and ascended over 40 new routes on Rock and Ice, pioneering expeditions to previously unclimbed peaks.
As a member of a team and solo undertaken many “expeditions”. The most notable of these are:
1. 1988- Unassisted run from the valley of Kathmandu (Lamosangu) to Everest Base camp. The 5 day-journey to 5500m.was completed breaking the previous record by more than one day.
2. 1989- Solo unassisted crossing (on foot) of the Atacama Desert (the driest desert in the world).
3. 1989/'90- Exploration in the eastern jungles of Bolivia. Involved in research and protection of Inka, Aymara and Quechua archeological sites. Spent many months living with traditional Amazonian-eastern tribes in the region of Madidi.
4. 1992- 1000km solo trekking traverse of Bolivia’s longest mountain chain, “Cordillera Real” with a descent into the Amazonian rainforest (article in NZ Adventure Magazine, issues 118 and 119, 2003).
5. 1994- Trek from Ladakh to Himashal Pradesh in India, making a first ascent of unnamed 6000m peak.
6. 1996- Unassisted bicycle journey around Cuba.
7. 1996- Climb of the world’s most continuously active volcano, Sangay in Ecuador. Also successful summit of Cotopaxi (5980m) and Chimborazo (6200m).
8. 1996- Solo ascent of Mexico’s 3 highest volcanoes (alt. up to 5700m.)
9. 1996- Full-time work as mountain guide for European and North American expeditions, including guided ascents of previously unclimbed mountains.
West Face, Huayna Potojsi (6088m) “Polish route” D+ 1000m face, passages 70 degree ice. Kondoriri (5750m) Bolivia: Directisima Route (Ogden, Monasterio) TD- Mixed climbing, snow and ice up to 80 degrees with no protection.
10. 1997- Traveled along the frozen Zanskar River between Ladakh and Zanskar (article in NZ Adventure Magazine 117 and 118, 2003). This seldom repeated expedition can only be undertaken in the middle of the Himalayan winter in temperatures between –20 to –40 C.
11. 1998- Unassisted winter bicycle journey across the European Alps (Italy to Hungary).
12. 1998- Solo climb of Artesonraju (6100m), Peru: Overall technical grade D-, 1000m face, with long passages of 60 degree ice. New route on NW Face of Pisco (5700m), Peru: TD. 600m face with poor protection and passages of 90 degree ice, and mixed rock/ice sections. New Route on Huallomen, (5300m), Bolivia: D, 500m face 70- 80 degree ice. Solo ascent of Illimani (6540m), combining two of the prominent 4 peaks of this massif.
13. 1998- Multiple first ascent rock and ice routes in Bolivia and Peru (Quimza Cruz, Cordillera Real, Towers of Paron).
14. 2002- Mount Cook 3840m. NZ. Zubbriggens Route. Grade D-
15. 2002- Guide in cycle journey across the Atacama desert.
16. 2002- New 500m rock route in the Andes, Gothic Peak (article in NZ Climber, Autumn 2003).
17. 2003- New Alpine Route of Mt. Foresta, in Alaska. Expedition supported by MEF and BMC (Team members, E. Monasterio and P. Knott).
18. 2003- Solo cycle journey from Santa Cruz to Potosi, in Bolivia.
19. 2004- Organizer of MEF and NZ Alpine Club supported expedition to Bolivia with ascents of four new routes (brief review in NZ Climber, Spring 2004 and articles in NZ Alpine Journal 2004).
20. 2005- Organizer and member of promotional product catalogue for adventure store Kathmandu, in Bolivia.
21. 2006- Big Wall climbing in Yosemite Valley, USA (several routes on El Capitan and Half-Dome). Expedition and exploration in Bolivia (NZAC grant recipient) with six new rock and mixed routes in the Andes. Expedition to unclimbed regions of western Tibet with successful ascent of 3 previously unclimbed mountains.
22. 2010- Big Wall climbing in Wadi Rum, Jordan.
23. 2010- Member of extremegate production team who organized world’s first building climbing competition in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore. Erik tested the route. http://www.extremegate.com/
24. 2011- Climbing expedition to Bolivia; new routes on the north face of Jankhopiti (5723m), (F6b/20) and Pt. 5540m, Viluyo Jankhouma via the southeast ridge. New variation on the direct route of the West Face of Huayna Potosi (6088m) and standard route on Anochuma (6430m) from the east. http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/south-america/bolivia/cordillera-real/2011-cordillera-real-overview-and-recent-new-routes-by-erik-monasterio-new-zealand/
25. 2012- Climbing expedition to Bolivia; new routes on the South Face of Charquini. (5400m, AI4, M5), East Face of Pico Milluni (Pt. 5500m; 250m NZ20) and East Face of Pico Italia (5750m, TD+). Normal route of Sajama (6550m).
Monasterio’s “Orko” Performances
Main Live Performances-
Music and photographic live performances in Latin America and Australasia since 1992. Some of these include:
1. Main stage presentation of Andean Music at Sweet Waters South Festival (Jan. 1992). Audience of 5000.
2. Main stage performance for opening of Christchurch City Council’s Summer Times Festival, Christchurch with television coverage (Dec. 1992). Audience of 10,000.
3. Audiovisual Presentations at Harbourlight Theatre, Lyttelton (1995, 1997, 2000 and 2006).
4. Live music performance for an television arts documentary in Guatemala (video available)
5. Audiovisual Presentation at Great Hall, Arts Centre Christchurch (Sept 2001). Supported by Christchurch City Council and Bivouac Sports.
6. Plenary AV Presentation at Wanaka, International Mountain Film Festival (June2005).
7. C.D. Launch, “Señor Nada” at The Harp performance venue, Sydney Australia (July 2005).
1. “Tuta Runa” CD and cassette (1992). Over 3000 copies sold.
2. “Iskaio Orko” CD recorded in the highest studio in the world, in the city of La Paz, Bolivia (1998). Collection of music and photography of the Andes. Five star review in the Press newspaper (reviewed by Stan Darling).
3. “Señor Nada” CD. All original compositions (2005).
Further Relevant Experience
Study with masters of traditional music (history, theory and practice) in Cuba and Bolivia.
Work as a freelance photojournalist in New Zealand and Bolivia covering articles on environmental themes and adventure sports (various publications in the CHCH Press and a number of newspapers in Bolivia). Photographic exhibitions in NZ, Australia, Hungary, Italy and Bolivia. In 1990 awarded third prize in the Bolivian Adventure Photographic exhibition. Frequent contributor of articles to a number of international climbing and adventure magazines (High Magazine, MoutainInfo 1999 and 2003, the NZ Climber, issues 20, 23 and 24, NZ Adventure Magazine). Co-author and translator of an English language climbing guide and adventures in the Bolivian Andes, published in May 2004 (Editorial CIMA- Bolivia).
Medical Doctor and senior clinical lecturer, specialized in Psychiatry with research interests in Psychological and motivational aspects of climbing (research published in NZ Medical Journal), and transcultural Psychiatry. Extensive experience in public speaking on medical and adventure topics.
Work in search and rescue in Bolivia. Involved in training of military Search and Rescue Team. Extensive knowledge of Altitude and Expedition Medicine.